New Model M Is an American-Made Keyboard That Puts a Spring Back in Your Typing

Karabiner-Elements allows you to specify that a particular mapping only applies to a specific keyboard (or multiple specific keyboards) or all keyboards, so I think it would work fine for what you’re suggesting.

But I didn’t realise you were also trying to use Windows (and I also didn’t realise how difficult it is to enter characters in Windows!). If you’re switching between computers or working with Windows, I can see the benefit of a programmable keyboard.

I’ve contacted a VP at Unicomp to see if they can get this sorted out.

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Apple makes a French-Canadian keyboard (ISO compliant) as well as other localized keyboards. It provides French diacrital accents directly and has a reduced size key where the Upper key is, hence reducing its dimension (OK with users!. No remapping is necessary. I wonder if the Company is looking at this or even possible?

Seriously, there are all kinds of alternatives. I’m typing right now on a KeyChron K4 v2, which allows all kinds of layout mods and choice of switches. I opted for the 10 key-less version with white LEDs (I could give a crap about RGB effects) with Gateron Blue switches and it was less than $70, (also BlueTooth and wired options) Shipping was $20 from Hong Kong but it took only 3 days to arrive. It’s low profile and has all the tactile feel I love as a touch typist. Mac users should expand their horizons a bit. There’s other hardware out there, just look for it.

I learned to type on my mother’s IBM Selectric in the 1970s. Loved it. Then a rich neighbour bought the first IBM PC, and again I loved the keyboard. Nothing has matched up to it since (although the Apple ADB was good). For several years I have used a Mathias Tactile Pro FK302, which feels good, but my wife is slowly going mad with the noise. So tell me: If I order one of the new Model M keyboards, will I be rapt once again with the same feel as on the Selectric and IBM PC? And will my wife no longer have to don industrial ear muffs?

If your “exact” is the USPS recommended street+unit addressing, the Fraud Alert may be due to saying the shipping & billing addresses are the same. I use “P.O. Box” address for the billing address, but the “Street+Unit” address for the shipping. I haven’t had any problems with FedEx or UPS with that. Oh I’ve also put the street+unit address in my PayPal address book in addition to the P.O. box address.

I’m right with you on the IBM Selectric typewriter keyboard feel. I also learned to type on those in high school (although we had few electric typewriters, most of them were manuals). But no keyboard Apple has ever made beats the Apple Extended Keyboard II, a keyboard many of us still own and a lot of us still use with a serial-to-usb adapter. The sound of it (also loud) would never bother me in a million years! Best tactile feel EVER.

Thanks but, this isn’t my input error as much the merchant-form processing end. I’ve not changed any configuration that I’ve used successfully elsewhere. And I considered browsers too, as sometime my FF is locked down to protect me. But with this one in particular, it didn’t work. And my Paypal info on file is exactly same (Bill to and Ship to addresses with PO Box). I even called my creditcard companies to verify what they have on file for addresses. An my amex support told me they had no fraudulent activity at specific time/day. But the good news is, I received my order confirmation email. So, I’ll be back to update when it arrives! :slight_smile:

At Unicomp, we use address verification ( card address and shipping address match) to help manage fraudulent purchases. Currently, even customers whose addresses match are being rejected. We have a support ticket opened with our e-store host but… So, there are two things that can be tried to circumvent the issue:1) place items into your cart and checkout as a guest. Not 100% effective but failing that try 2) open a ticket at Someone will work with you to take your order.
I apologize for the inconvenience. Hopefully we will have the problem resolved soon. Thanks for your patience.

Don Bowman
VP of Development and Support
Unicomp GA LLC


I have stuff shipped to the PO. In other words, rather than having it shipped to PO Box 123, I have it shipped to 987 Main St #123, where 987 Main St is the address of the PO. Both UPS and FedEx deliver to the address specified this way.

How did I learn to do it this way? The Post Office suggested it. It was long ago, but it was a flyer from some level much higher than my local post office.

I sent a question to support and got an immediate email acknowledgement. But then I got another email telling me to go to the web site to read the answer. It rubbed me the wrong way that they wouldn’t put the answer in email as well as on the web site. Am I too picky?

Will, I don’t want to deter J’s article. But, for the PO stuff, I had no issue tonight with 3 different vendors and orders using card that goes to a PO. Its the server/merchant end, how the form is setup, and whether its not or is, checking credentials to match form if/thens. My local Post Office postmaster clearly explained that, technically, its illegal for a merchant to refuse shipping to a post office box (and that is all I have, no mailbox at my home). Now, I do add to the end of the street addy, the box with tricks like b o x then #. Where the spacing fools the shipping form. And allows the postal agent to see, Ok, its box #. Fedex/UPS use the avenue I provide and ignore the box info. But lately, oh too much, Amazon is doing more UPS-to-last mile Postal. That means I need that Box number in there. And then the billing, I have ironed out all my debit/paypal/cc billing to be specific, and shipping to be the street/box. Works out. I just think that when going to be an internet merchant, you should look at some of the successful sites out there, and mirror them.
And yeah, I am not fond of merchants that open a ticket system and you have to login or visit to see the status. I mean, you emailed me that I have a ticket status…well…? Right?
To Josh: Again, thank you for the article. I await my M. And with your info, I will take care of the blue LEDs promptly…(maybe replace with white or red surface mounts via hot air).

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If you do that swap, can you document how you do it? That would be good info to know.

While a LED swap is definitely cool, there is an inexpensive, less labor-intensive, and easily reversible solution: LightDims. I ordered a pack right after my New Model M.

Thanks for writing this article, Josh! I had been in contact with them for months, and the can kept getting kicked down the road. I only wish I’d seen your comment about them making the Mac layout a standard (and hopefully cheaper) option shortly. I would have waited to place my order. But, oh well. At least I’ll have a great keyboard on the way!

I bought my Spacesaver M back in 2012, and the fit and finish is good. (Presumably the machine tools weren’t quite so worn back then.)

Given that my Spacesaver M works fine, is there any benefit to buying the New Model M?

I’ve also been drooling over that new Model F, and if I didn’t already have my Spacesaver M buckling spring, I’d probably get one, because any buckling spring keyboard is better than the crappy $5 plastic dome keyboards commonly available. But it’s almost $400, and while I might like it better than one I have now, it’s hard to imagine that the value of any improvement would be equal to $400.

(I have a coworker who ordered one of those Model Fs; maybe after I see it I’ll reconsider.)

No, not unless you just want a new keyboard or want to help support Unicomp.