I’ve been trying to import a cassette tape audio of a training program I ran years ago. It has been awhile and I have no idea how I was able to do that as the iMac has no audio input. Previously I used a ezcap recorder designed for this purpose, and imported the audio output via a USB input. For the life of me I have no idea how I did it. I own all the wonderful apps like Fission, Soundsource and all Rogue Amoeba software but I am at a loss as to how to get the Mac to recognize a USB audio input in addition to the Mac’s own mike. Any suggestions?
A Griffin iMic has audio in and connects via USB. Don’t know if it’s still available beyond eBay. I’m sure there’s other equivalents.
2 Likes
Is it an option (when plugged in) in Settings, Sound, Input?
You need a digitizer. El Gato makes a good USB a/v digitizer, There are several on Amazon for $15-20. Once connected, it will show up as an input just as your mic does, within any recording software.
2 Likes
There are lots of inexpensive USB audio interfaces.
I’ve used this one for my ripping of cassettes:
It has RCA jacks for analog audio input and output. Input may be either line-level (e.g., what cassette decks output) or phono-level (e.g., what turntables with magnetic cartridges output), selectable with a switch.
It appears in macOS as a generic audio input/output device. You should be able to select it using whatever software you choose to use it with.
And, FWIW, when I did my ripping, I used the open source app, Audacity:
3 Likes
Well, I searched for the Griffin iMic (which I think was the original device I used a number of years ago) and found the USB Audio Capture Card Grabber for Vinyl Cassette Tapes to Digital MP3 Converter, Support Mac & Windows 10/8.1/8 / 7 / Vista/XP on Amazon. It looks like it may be the answer! My daughter is thrilled because I found not only an old tape of my mentor preaching back in the ‘70’s but also one of my own preaching back then. guaranteed sleep coming my family’s way! Thank you all for your suggestions. This is why TidBits is so great - what a resource of knowledgable people! Hope this search helps someone else.
1 Like
There are options, some inexpensive. I haven’t had to get tape into a Mac in years, but I had a couple of USB devices; one from Onkyo, IIRC. I think I was using Peak LE, but it seems like the process would be the same with other recording apps.
This is a variant on the UFO202 that I shared.
The big difference is that the UCA222 is dual-channel (2 inputs, 2 outputs), while the UFO202 has a phono pre-amp (necessary if you want to directly connect a turntable with a magnetic cartridge).
The UCA222 is also lower-latency, but that shouldn’t matter for ripping recorded media. It would be a big deal if you’re trying to use it as a part of a live-audio mixing/recording system.
Either one will work great for line-level input, like a cassette deck. And since they present as generic audio interfaces, you should be able to use literally any audio-capture app you want.
2 Likes
So the lower-latency Behringer UCA222 would be a better choice than the 202. Thanks, David. I was considering that brand until I read a review that said, “These devices shift high frequencies out of phase! I verified this by running a series of tones through them from a NAB test CD and viewed the results on a scope. Once you get to 12 kHz, you will see the shifting begin and it gets worse for anything higher.” That doesn’t sound good.
Thanks kat634e for the digitizing article. I didn’t think of connecting a tape deck’s RCA outs directly to the Mac. Offhand that seems like a better way to go without a cheap converter box introducing problems, but most modern Macs don’t have an audio in.
Maybe. I’ve never run my device through high-precision test equipment (that probably cost 100x what the device itself cost). If what you’re doing is that sensitive, then you should buy suitably high-end gear, but I’m sure an iMic or a Mac’s built-in line-in jack (or any other consumer-grade device) will also be less than perfect.
And if you’re ripping from old cassettes and vinyl using a consumer-grade cassette deck/turntable (and not capturing from NAB diagnostic CDs using professional test equipment), then your source material will likely have enough distortions that a phase shift at frequencies above 12k is going to be the least of your problems.
1 Like
I myself use an old FireWire Apogee Duet hanging off a 2012 Mac Mini. It has given me very good results, is quite simple to operate and I bought it second-hand way back when. I did invest in a custom line-level cable. I have not found the need to pay for anything newer or better, and all my editing needs have been filled with, at first, Amadeus Pro and later on, Fission.
1 Like
When I put all belongings into storage for a move many years ago I used an iMic with an even older, but originally good, turntable and tape deck. So while I digitized the content of those items, the sound was not great. Tape and turntable speeds were not consistent after years of non/minimal use.
I was able to buy and install a new drive band for the turntable but even with that the speed varied enough for my non-audiophile ears to notice. The tape speeds varied also.
So for anyone doing @dougeddy ’s kind of project, if the sound quality is really important, please consider tending to the playing equipment manufacturer’s maintenance requirements, and listen to some samples before digitizing to see if any variations in sound quality are ok, repair those that are not, before converting to digits.
Absolutely correct. Make sure your playback devices are producing good audio before you start. Arguing about high frequency phase shifting from non-pro digitizers is a waste of time if your cassette deck needs new belts.